Repetitive practice and common technique drills are ACTUALLY an inefficient way to learn good skills!

In this video, we will go through the science of movement, and how variability in movement plays a big part in developing adaptability which in turn makes you a stronger and better climber.

So why do we need variation in practice, can’t we just break down movement into parts and practice these? There is a good reason why this approach only works on very novice athletes, and thats because of how we coordinate movement movement is selforganised, our actions are coupled with our perceptions e.g. how far away a hold is and how we create momentum with our body to reach it.

So how do we train selforganisation better?

One answer is the ConstraintsLed Approach (CLA) which is defined as, ‘motor skills acquisition is a nonlinear approach based on the idea that every athlete is unique and develops their movement skills in a nonlinear fashion throughout their lifespan.’

We will cover:
➡ How CLA relates to climbing practice
➡ The concepts of ‘constraints’ and ‘attractors’ and how you can use these to refine your technique
➡ PLUS we will demonstrate 7 different concepts you can use to train your technique with this approach

The best thing about this approach to training movement and better technique is that it encourages exploration, creativity and individualism which are all important to rock climbers!

Now go carve your own path in your climbing training journey!

0:00 History of Skill Learning
3:06 Why variability matters
4:34 Actionperception coupling
5:02 Benefits of Selforganisation
6:07 Why we need organised practice CLA
6:55 Constraints
9:15 Affordances
11:10 Error amplification
11:55 Creating Affordances
14:36 Technique Sessions Pt.1
17:24 Too Strong?
21:20 Technique Sessions Pt.2
23:00 The Biggest Benefit

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