May 10, 1996: near the summit of Mount Everest a storm of unimaginable ferocity strikes, claiming the lives of eight climbers and leaving others stranded in a fight for survival. This is the story of one of the most controversial and tragic days in mountaineering history.
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Among the chaos and controversy, one name stands out: Anatoli Boukreev*. His actions that day would spark a heated debate that rages on to this very day. Boukreev's name was brought into prominence in Jon Krakauer's book Into Thin Air, which sold over two million copies in the first couple of years after it was published. Krakauer was critical of Boukreev and his guiding style on the mountain, saying it was irresponsible behavior for a guide. Boukreev countered these accusations with his thrilling book The Climb.
Was Anatoli Boukreev a hero, or was he a villain? Let's find out.
HERE IS OUR FOLLOWUP LIVE STREAM ABOUT ANATOLI AND KRAKAUER:
https://youtube.com/live/eq1ILYiCWIk
*In 1997, Boukreev was killed in an avalanche on Christmas day during a winter ascent of Annapurna in Nepal. Boukreev's companion, Linda Wylie, edited his memoirs and published them in 2002 under the title, Above the Clouds: The Diaries of a HighAltitude Mountaineer.
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LINKS TO VIDEOS REFERENCED IN THIS ANALYSIS
Extended Episode on The Happiness Quotient Podcast:
https://www.buzzsprout.com/268133/153...
Decoding Scott Fischer's Role in the 1996 Everest Tragedy
• Decoding Scott Fischer's Role in the ...
The REAL Story of Sandy Pittman's 1996 Everest Tragedy & Fallout
• The REAL Story of Sandy Pittman's 199...
Guides Without Gas How NOT to Guide Mount Everest w/Adrian Ballinger
• How NOT to Guide Mount Everest w/Adri...
TIME STAMPS / CHAPTERS
00:00 intro to the 1996 Storm over Everest
00:36 controversy over Anatoli Boukreev
1:16 rundown of topics covered in video
2:33 changing times on Everest and in commercial guiding
3:31 Anatoli Boukreev bio and background
5:47 conditions on mountain in the days before the storm
7:34 Departure for summit
8:33 Mountain Madness team slowed and discussion about low amounts of oxygen planned for summit
10:29 mixup on rope fixing by Sherpas from Adventure Consultants and Mountain Madness, and danger of sections needing rope
11:44 Scott Fischer and Anatoli speak while passing each other atop Hillary Step at approximately 3PM and turnaround time
13:05 agreement for Anatoli to descend down to Camp 4 to support clients on summit bid
14:28 Conditions at Camp 4 and arrival of storm
16:20 Scott Fischer’s death below the Balcony and the assistance of Lopsang Sherpa, Scott’s head climbing Sherpa
19:02 survival and rescues by Anatoli on South Col throughout the storm
20:18 Anatoli returns to Scott Fischer to see if he was still alive
21:12 criticism of Boukreev in the media, namely Into Thin Air by Jon Krakauer, and Boukreev begins writing his own book The Climb
23:34 Boukreev’s heroic deeds and the final bombshell of the decisions made on the mountain and potential to save Fischer’s life
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