My tractor is due for service so today I'm going to show you how I do it. As I age, I want the process to be as clean and easy as possible so I'm going to be sharing some tips and products that'll make it go more smoothly.
First thing I'm going to do is start the tractor up to get the engine warm, and remove my loader bucket. You'll see why in a minute. I've laid out a big sheet of cardboard in the driveway to lay on, and to keep oil off. That's a trick my dad always used and it's so much nicer to slide around on cardboard under there than concrete.
Now, we're going to raise the front end loader all the way up in the air and install Tractor Cylinder Safety Stops: https://asktractormike.com/product/tr.... It's a whole lot easier to work on a tractor with the loader frame up in the air, but it can be dangerous. By inserting a pair of safety stops in the cylinder rams you have a mechanical protection in place and you can safely work under the raised loader.
Now, we're going to drain the oil, making sure we remove both plugs (if the tractor has two). While that's happening, I'm going to take a paint pencil (or Sharpie if it its lighter colored) and write the date and the hours on the tractor on the new oil filter. That'll give me an idea of when it'll be time to change it again. Using a filter wrench to loosen the filter, I make sure to have a pan to catch the waste oil underneath. Let it drain and then dab some of the new oil on the gasket on the replacement filter and hand tighten it firmly. Use the filter wrench to tighten another 1/4 turn. Then replace the drain plugs and fill with oil. Next, I'm replacing my hydraulic filter today hydrostatic filter. They're both pretty hard to get to, a lot of people don't know that a tractor has a hydro filter. We're done with the lubrication system.
I'm changing my fuel filter next, so I'm shutting the diesel off and removing the ring that holds the assembly together with my filter wrench. I let the stray fuel go into the waste oil pan and will take it to the dealership where I used to work for recycling where they'll use it to heat their shop next winter. After inserting the new fuel filter I put the bowl back together (don't lose or forget the spring in the bottom) and tightened everything back up. Make sure to remove and replace the old gasket on the filter. Once in a while an old gasket will stick in the receptacle and a new gasket will be installed on top of it. That can make the tractor run rough or not start.
Next,I remove the air filter and make sure there's not a lot of dirt in there. If it's in decent shape, I could tap it out on a firm surface to remove dirt and debris, If you can't see sunlight through it, it's time to replace it, which is what I did with mine. I did write the date on the end of it with my paint pencil.
Next, I want to check the radiator to see if there's enough coolant in there and if it's protected from freezing this Winter. If it was low, I'd add a 50/50 water antifreeze mix for this area. Next, I'm blowing out the radiator with jets of water, using a device called a Radiator Genie: https://asktractormike.com/product/ra... for best effect. Radiator Genie includes a wand for compressed air, if you prefer. If you use the Radiator Genie and water, cover up the battery if it's mounted in front of the radiator and shoot the water from the back forward.
Finally, I'm going to lubricate every grease zerk. I consult my owner's manual as a guide because there are some wellhidden grease zerks that can be easily missed. I use the Lube Shuttle grease delivery system: https://asktractormike.com/productsf.... Lube Shuttle is a very deluxe Germanbuilt device, replacement canisters screw in, there's no plunger to try to pull back and the gun won't hang on the wall and leak half the grease out. It's one of my favorite products!
Lasty, it's time to start everything and watch closely for leaks. I'll put a clean piece of cardboard underneath overnight just to make sure there's not oil or fuel leaking out somewhere.
Congratulations...the tractor is ready to go to work!
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