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How to Fix Anterior Knee Pain for Rock Climbers (Front Knee Pain)

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// TIMESTAMPS //
Intro (00:00)
Important Context (00:24)
Part 1: Causes of Anterior Knee Pain (01:11)
Reason #5 (01:20)
Reason #4 (01:50)
Reason #3 (02:23)
Reason #2 (02:54)
Reason #1 (03:33)
Part 2: Strength and Mobility Tests (04:16)
Mobility Test (04:33)
Strength Test (05:00)
Strength + Mobility Test (06:31)
Part 3: Fixing Anterior Knee Pain (07:23)
Fix #1 (07:38)
Fix #2 (08:09)
Fix #3 (08:45)
Fix #3a (08:56)
Fix #3b (09:28)
Fix #3c (10:07)
Fix #3d (10:50)
Final Thoughts and Outro (11:22)

// SHOW NOTES //
Episode 89

INTRODUCTION

Do you force yourself to downclimb everything because jumping makes you cringe? Does the thought of a deep drop knee give you nightmares? Do long hikes to the crag leave you walking like Hank Hill’s dad? If you’ve been experiencing frequent pain right around [zoom into knee] here, then you KNEED to check out this video!!

In this episode, we’re talking about the causes, tests, and solutions for anterior knee pain, so you can stop asking your friends to carry your heavy crashpad for you and start hiking, climbing, and jumping like a true kneesovertoesguy fanboy.

AN IMPORTANT NOTE

Before we begin, I need to make one thing clear: the causes of anterior knee pain range wildly, making an exact diagnosis difficult to impossible without evaluation from a professional. As such, this video is not meant to diagnosis a specific pathology, but rather to first explain the most common biomechanical and behavioral causes of anterior knee pain for climbers, then to demonstrate functional mobility and strength tests so you can narrow things down a bit, and finally to provide a set of exercises to help mitigate the issues highlighted by those tests. If you have or suspect a more severe issue like patellofemoral pain syndrome, instability of the patella, or even a big word diagnosis like Chondromalacia Patellae, then please get help from a skilled provider.

PART 1: CAUSES OF ANTERIOR KNEE PAIN

Biomechanical Causes

Anatomical and/or biomechanical causes of anterior knee pain include: limited range of motion, low or untrained tolerance to high loads placed on the knee, imbalances in the strength of the hamstrings vs the quads, and finally imbalances and/or weakness in the foot/ankle as well as the hips. Let’s start with the slightly less common ones and work up to the most common and thus most important.

Let’s start with discussing muscle imbalances. First, the quad to hamstring ratio, then we will move on to foot/ankle and hip imbalances.

Ran out of room!! For the rest, please check out the show notes:
https://www.hoopersbeta.com/library/w...

// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.

// IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS //
Crowded Gym: https://felixwong.com/2017/06/farewel...
Glutes: BodyParts3D/Anatomography, CC BYSA 2.1 JP https://creativecommons.org/licenses/..., via Wikimedia Commons
Knee Anatomy: BruceBlaus. When using this image in external sources it can be cited as:Blausen.com staff (2014). "Medical gallery of Blausen Medical 2014". WikiJournal of Medicine 1 (2). DOI:10.15347/wjm/2014.010. ISSN 20024436., CC BY 3.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/..., via Wikimedia Commons

// PRODUCERS //
Jason Hooper (PT, DPT, OCS, SCS)
and
Emile Modesitt (@emile166)

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posted by apelesrr