West ridge of Forbidden Peak, car to car. Was not expecting this to be so hard, but it took us 17 hours.

We weren't sure we could get a permit to camp in Boston Basin and also didn't really want to carry all of our backpacking gear up to camp so car camped close by the trailhead (Mineral Park Campground highly recommended). Got up at 3am, leaving trailhead at 4:20am.

The trail up to the basin is very rough with lots of vegetation and steep rocky sections. We also went to lower camp instead of staying on the real trail. By the time we got to high camp, there were two parties ahead of us heading up to the West Ridge and one going up the East Ridge.

I assumed we'd be able to scramble up Catscratch gullies but the lower part was pretty sketchy so we roped up and ended up behind both parties. There were a bunch of spots with loose dirt and nowhere to place pieces. Top of the gullies could have been scrambled, but we ended up just pitching it out almost to the big notch.

Climbing on the ridge was a lot of fun, but we did have to take lots of breaks for the parties ahead of us both as they were climbing up and then back down.

The exposure on the ridge is incredible. No hard moves, but there were a few sections where I couldn't place pieces and really had to commit to the next move. Third pitch probably would have been easier if I dropped down to the north but I stayed on the ridge.

Crux was fun with a good piton right before and lots of good placements.

Got to the summit around 2pm then climbed back to the false summit, another climb back to crux anchor. Two rappels there then two more pitches of downclimbing. Luckily rope drag was pretty minimal. The gullies took 4 rappels with a couple where we went to the end of our 70m rope and then scrambled a bit down to the next anchor. Rope got stuck once so I had to scramble back up and free it.

Hiking out took forever, sunset right after high camp. My feet were killing me so all the downstepping was brutal. We got back around 10pm, drove back to camp and went to sleep.