Flying kites is a serious sport in Petare, Venezuela's biggest slum. Kites fill the sky, attacking each other as players try to capture their rivals. Residents proudly display their kites as trophies. Dead kites hang tangled in the power lines.
Here kites are called papagayos, which also means parrot. "Volar papagayo" means to fly a kite but it also has a second sexual meaning. The rapid jerky hand movements of the mostlymale players gives a clue.
I joined some residents of Petare to learn how to play in a kite battle. On the same rooftop, they train fighting cocks, which is another popular sport in the slum. These cocks can earn big money if they win. Some are worth thousands of dollars.
Kite fighting is part of the culture of Petare, which some say is the most dangerous place in Caracas. But it is also home to many people who live normal lives and don't deserve to be judged by the reputation of the barrio.
If you want to visit Petare, it's best to go with a trusted guide during the day. You can find advice on: http://www.visitvenezuela.com

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