All links to everything (and info) in description. Subscribe & Bell for more content like this!

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MB stuff you can find: https://www.amazon.com/hz/wishlist/ls...

I forgot to say, vent your gas cap if you DO upgrades and mods to your engine making more performance, and also improving fuel delivery. Vent your cap.

Useful info to keep your engine running as long as possible:
Never run lean if you can. Your crank bottom end bearing will fail and damage your top end eventually.
Be careful with advancing your timing. Too advanced predetonation, equivalent to using a sledgehammer smacking the piston, damages your crank shafts, bearings and other parts over time.
Because of these cheap chinadoll cranks, some of them may or may not hold up to higher RPM for longer periods of time. The crank pin may or may not be a tight fit. Over time they tend to go out of true. Honestly, the only way to keep them trued is by having a slightly oversized pin, making a much tighter fit, OR just tack welding them. Make sure your crank is trued before you do that. Balancing your crank will help keep it trued for longer periods of time, in my opinion.
The reason why going higher rpm for longer periods of time is a bad idea, this is because the crank bottom conrod bearing and pin is creating some heat, thinning out the oil, creating more friction, then heating up more. I was told this, and that the pin also sometimes rotate (what?)
For continuous runs, I would say that 8 to 9k rpm would be max. Anything over that, be careful and don't run for too long. It's hard to say for how long. Maybe like, over 30 seconds or so? Who knows. You can always build your own crank, better upgraded bearings, slightly oversized pin for tighter fits, and tolerances of the bearing, etc. OR buy one from people. Or buy an actual upgraded crank, either RDM crank, or Kelly Cansler's billet steel crank. I believe RDM is able to take 15k rpm continuously, and Kelly's 1213k continuously? Kelly only told me that it turns 12k+ hard, continuously.
Don't lug your engine (giving your engine more throttle/gas while at lower rpms like under 4k rpm or so)
Smaller sprockets (depending on wheel size) can and does lug your engine more easily when trying to take off. Even if not, it will accelerate wear to the moving parts. This may result in blowing the bottom bearing as well.
There's a lot to learn. I'm also still learning. I'm sure there will be experienced commenters to give more advice and tips.

Every links you saw in video:
Calculators by ‪@MikeNBikes‬ https://script.google.com/macros/s/AK...
$13 Stihl 090 Carburetor: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01...
$70 Parmakit CDI: https://www.treatland.tv/ProductDetai...
$30 Catnip CDI: https://www.ebay.com/itm/133435352658
$95 Smolik Head: https://smolikperformance.com/product...
RMHPerformance Pipes: https://rmhperformance.com/collection...
$120 Real MZ65: https://gomaxind.com/products/realmz...
$7 4pcs Barbs (for most motorized gas tanks): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Z9RC78H
$12 10pcs Fuel Inline Valves: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015HJFXI2
(Drill them wider for better flow)
$85 Stage 2 Clutch Upgrade https://rdmanu.com/products/clutchup...
$13 10pcs Carbide Bits: https://www.amazon.com/DoubleCutCar...
Cheap $22 Rotary Tool w/ Flex Shaft (easier porting): https://www.amazon.com/WEN23103Vari...
$13 40 to "47"mm intake (like 20mm ID): https://www.ebay.com/itm/194371703647
COMOWARE Drill bits (variations): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
And some more I forgot?

0:00 Intro
1:35 Do these upgrades first
2:10 (1) Intro of what pipes
2:26 (2) How 2 stroke pipe works (w/ 55mph demos)
3:33 (3) What pipes to use/avoid
5:59 What heads to use/avoid
7:59 (1) What carbs/sizes to use
9:30 (2) What intakes to mount your carbs
9:55 (3) Pumper carbs to save lots of time/effort
11:16 (4) Showcase of intake mod for pulse port
11:38 (5) Demo of tuning pumper carb (62mph record!)
12:34 Squish gap mod
13:24 Balancing & Truing your crank
17:38 Upgrading the head
20:28 Upgrading the pipe
24:33 Porting your cylinder
29:20 Upgrading your carburetor

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