It was my first time proper bouldering in Sweden this spring, and what a day it was ✊

Pretty unique how one single bloc can produce such an amazing quality line. I saw a video of this unique compression roofarete a few years ago, and I knew I absolutely had to climb it one day. I had a great crew with strong locals, lots of beta available and amazing and motivating vibes.

The higher start to this arete is “Luftig kö till nålens öga” originally graded 8B+, then 8B was suggested. The lower start is called “Den nattliga havsfärden”, originally graded 8C by first ascentionist ‪@carl.nilsask‬ and repeated by ‪@pauer.bouldering‬ recently, suggesting maybe 8B+ ✌

At first, I was described perfect beta by ‪@pauer.bouldering‬ I went for the flash of higher start “Luftig kö till nålens öga”. Everything flowed really well, I got all technical details perfectly on this compression beast and I found myself at the final cutloose, where I just tried really really hard (can’t remember when I had try so hard in the span of just a second) and I was on the top. I think hard 8B fits this line☝

Then I went for the sitstart, kept giving tries until late evening, I got close, but I will have return! I think this start could be soft 8C? Amazing line and a day not to forget!

Thank you the whole Kjuge crew.

Camera
Jan Verner

© Adam Ondra 2024

#climbing #rockclimbing #Sweden