The steps after scanning are not covered as much, so with this video I wanted to demystify the whole workflow: Retopologising the mesh, creating the UVs and the final texture maps. There's many different ways to approach this, but after many tests I've settled on this workflow that fits my needs and delivers good results. If you don't own all of the programs I'm using, you can use the video as a rough guide of what each step in the workflow looks like. Enjoy!

Some other videos about photogrammetry you might find useful

If you're not familiar with Photogrammetry start here:
   • Apple's impressive entry in to photog...  

How to cleanup your 3D scan with Zbrush:
   • How to cleanup your 3D scans in Zbrush  

Don't have a camera and you want to use a phone? Here's a comparison video:
   • Is a phone good enough for photogramm...  

Using video instead of photographs to capture objects:
   • How effective is video for photogramm...  


MY TUTORIALS & 3D ASSETS
3D scanned debris: https://www.marvelousdecay.com/gumroa...
3D scanned food assets: https://www.marvelousdecay.com/gumroa...
Adobe Illustrator tutorial: https://www.marvelousdecay.com/gumroa...


MY PHOTOGRAMMETRY GEAR:

Genie Mini II:
https://amzn.to/3j433WE

FalconEyes RX18T
https://amzn.to/35yviJT

Linear Polarised film for the light:
https://amzn.to/3x9EfkY
This very much depends on the size of your light. If you have a smaller light you can get something smaller than A2. And of course the other way around.

Gobe lens polarise filter:
https://amzn.to/3BWUQMq
Make sure you buy the right size for your lens. Or you can get a bigger filter and use step down rings for all your lenses


Note:
When you buy something using the affiliate links in this video or any of my other videos, I earn a small affiliate commission at no additional cost to you. Your support is appreciated!




Host & Creator: Dimitris Katsafouros
Website: https://www.marvelousdecay.com
Twitter:   / marvelousdecay