Smarter, more effective methods for training fruit trees for better, faster results. notching, disbudding, delayed open center and modified central leader forms.

Link to download the 1930s tree training study I talk about in the video: http://skillcult.com/freestuff

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Standard gear I recommend. I either use or have used all of it.

Council Tool Boys Axe: https://amzn.to/3z0muqI
Bahco Farmer's File: https://amzn.to/3Hbdhij
King two sided sharpening stone: https://amzn.to/32EX1XC
Silky f180 saw: https://amzn.to/3yZzM71
ARS 10 foot long reach pruner: https://amzn.to/3esETmM
Victorinox grafting/floral knife: https://amzn.to/3Jki1E9
Wiebe 12” fleshing tool: https://amzn.to/3sB0qSl
Atlas Elbow Gloves: https://amzn.to/3FwB5g6

BOOKS:
The Axe Book, by Dudley Cook: https://amzn.to/32kx7sN
Bushcraft, by Mors Kochanski: https://amzn.to/32q2rpT

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Common recommendations for training fruit trees are fairly crude, primitive, slow and only moderately effectual for very specific tree forms. They are especially unsuited to the very useful delayed open center and modified central leader fruit tree forms. This is a set of tools that can be used to insure you get the resulting tree form that you want and get it more quickly. These tools include, choosing exactly which buds grow into branches, disbudding and notching. More tools will be added as the tree grows on over the next few years. By year 4 I would like to be pretty much in maintenance mode and have the main framework of the tree established.