In this video we take a look at nearly every system that is accepted to use to shorten the rope for alpine climbing or mountaineering. It's a super in depth video so make yourself a cuppa and get stuck in.

There are almost certainly other systems out there for shortening the rope but these are the most common.

I talk through the pros and cons and my go to systems. Let me know your thoughts in the comments!

Chapters
00:00 Intro
01:41 Initial set up / how to practice
03:33 Taking coils
05:06 Tying off coils
06:36 Lowering the pull with a Carabiner
07:47 Finer points of tied off chest coils
12:11 Unblocked Chest coils
13:58 Sheet bend tie off
15:51 Bowline tie off
16:34 Opposing carabiner
17:07 Overhand clipped in
19:48 North American tie off
21:21 Both arms through
22:34 Stuffing the rope into the Bag.
25:22 mechanical rope attachments
26:40 Using a prusik on the harness
27:34 Outro

Interested in learning more or hiring me a guide? Check out my website: https://www.davesearleguiding.com/

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Some of the Gear I use:

Petzl I beam style Carabiner: https://amzn.to/3BZ3njz
Petzl Connect Adjust: https://amzn.to/3WlUSXR
The Perfect carabiner for connect adjust: https://amzn.to/3VfeMCx
Petzl Reverso: https://amzn.to/3WWo33Z
Petzl crevasse rescue kit: (Tibloc Microtraxion etc) https://amzn.to/3jk3fVj
Petzl Irvis Hybrid crampons: https://amzn.to/3WE7bi9
Petzl Rad Line https://amzn.to/3v9mFPw
Petzl Gully ice axe (adze) https://amzn.to/3PLKINT
Petzl Gully Ice axe (hammer) https://amzn.to/3jj2gVj
Smith Sunglasses: https://amzn.to/3YIN3NF