马六甲河千年来缓缓流淌默默凝望这座古城几番革故鼎新。其中惹兰基让Jalan Kilang位于市区河道蜿蜒处的左岸它曾是甲市区的大动脉有着蓬勃的工业区在国家经济发展中扮演着举足轻重的角色现已重命名为敦阿里路Jalan Tun Ali。于1969年建成的敦阿里车站更成为了当地的地标。

新落成的车站大厦替代了原先位于祈安律Jalan Kee Ann的羁留巴士总站Hentian Bus Terminal同时也是一座综合性建筑除了车站大厦楼上更设有大型连锁百货商场和一家国际酒店、底楼则有高达72家类型五花八门的店铺。无论是衣服包包、金银首饰、报纸书籍、花卉水果抑或是市井小吃在这里应有尽有。

敦阿里车站作为州内环市的巴士总站共有八大公司分别负责通往州内各大乡镇的路线可谓四通八达。车站站址距离古镇景点仅几步之遥对面有一座大型巴刹和车站楼上的购物广场在娱乐匮乏的70至80年代可谓罕见这些新发展为市区注入无限生机。因此出入车站的人潮从清晨到夜深络绎不绝不管是上下课的学生或是上下班的社会人士闲时流连于此聚会或拍拖情景热闹无比。各色各样的巴士并排在站前尘土和浓厚的黑烟飘散在空气中伴随着检票员忙碌的身影和行色匆匆的路人是一代马六甲人的集体回忆。

在2005年市议会下令将车站迁至距离市区以北五公里外的仙特拉巴士总站即是马六甲中央车站Melaka Sentral Bus Terminal。敦阿里旧车站就此止步发展洪流人潮骤减店铺生意欠佳。当中包括百货商场和酒店在内的商家因蒙受严重亏损而纷纷搬迁或结业。巴士总站迁移多年后如今旧车站近乎废弃的建筑四周杂草丛生积水导致蚊虫滋生瘾君子和卖淫者频繁出没几年前遭逢祝融之灾后更是满目疮痍。

即使在如此卑劣的环境下仍有部分店铺基于租金低廉选择留下。人潮不再却有乐龄人士喜欢相聚在底楼的旷地聊天打发时间三大民族和睦相处店家多年来累积的熟客也会特意前来光顾当中仅剩三家店铺茶室、洋服店、和当铺。

跟随旧车站一同开张的琼林宝茶冰室是一家典型海南咖啡店。除了贩卖茶水同时也提供面包、椰浆饭、经济面等简便餐点。第二代继承人林新友叔叔从亡父手中接班已36年间中曾尝试到新总站营业苦于无人问津则重回故地持续经营超过50字号的茶室。它伴随着旧车站成了最后也是唯一一家从未搬迁的店铺直到落幕。

位于旧车站左侧入口处的京城洋服进驻于此40余年七旬老裁缝师傅——李聪开叔叔从楼上的男装商场区辗转搬到底楼的摊位单独营业。高峰时期曾聘请五、六工人协助订单而今仅剩李师傅一人独自掌柜安逸度过晚年旧车站最后一家店铺是江福荣叔叔所经营的当铺主要收购旧金和当票。从槟城移居来的他因相中这座停车位易寻的地标建筑一落户转眼便已15年。

今年七月杪旧车站水电供应将被切断是业主在市议会施压下给予的最后通牒。坚守阵地的最后三家店铺得不撤离让旧车站正式落下帷幕。虽然对长期赖以生存的环境依依不舍后继无人的茶冰室和裁缝铺终于画下句点林叔叔和李叔叔都将退休而江叔叔的当铺会搬至另一条街道继续营业。市议会将重新规划旧车站和附近几块荒地的未来发展也许在若干年后呈现全新风貌继续为古城增添一笔辉煌史记。

The flowing Malacca river silently bore witness to several revolutions which took place in this historical city. Situated on the left bank of the city riverbend, Jalan Kilang (renamed Jalan Tun Ali) used to be the pulse of Melaka town, its industrial area played a pivotal role in developing the nation’s economy. Built in 1969, Tun Ali Bus Terminal became a landmark.

The newlybuilt terminal replaced the former Hentian Bus Terminal located on Jalan Kee Ann; it is also a multifunctional building. Housed above the terminal is a departmental store chain and an international hotel, whereas on the ground floor are up to 72 retail shops. Anything from clothes, bags, jewellery, newspapers, books, magazines, flowers, fruits, and a variety of food are available.

As a domestic transport hub, there are eight major bus companies at Tun Ali Bus Terminal operating several routes across the surrounding towns. The terminal is within walking distance from historical sites, opposite a large wet market, the shopping complex upstairs a novel feat during the 70s80s when entertainment was scarce. This new development introduced vitality to the town centre, being crowded from early morning to late night. Be it students or working adults, loitering during their free time, having a gathering, or going on a date, the terminal is always bustling. Buses of varying colours and sizes line up in rows, causing dust and fume particles to fill the air around the station, the sight of busy conductors and rushing pedestrians, all are collective memories of Melaka folk.

In 2005, the city council issued an order to relocate the terminal 5km northwards to Melaka Sentral Bus Terminal. Tun Ali Bus Terminal ceased to operate, hence business declined due to lesser crowds. Merchants, including the departmental store and hotel, had to move out or close down due to heavy losses. Some years later, the old bus terminal became neglected, its surroundings overgrown with grass and weeds, stagnant water causes mosquito breeding, frequented by drug addicts and prostitutes, a fire outbreak earlier on brought upon more severe devastation.
(Full Text: https://uniness.gallery/马六甲旧车站的故事/)

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文 Text/ 潘慧雯 Pua Hui Wen

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