At 16 miles, this is by far the longest, most strenuous hike I’ve ever done! Once you get to the top, subdome and half dome tower above you like a skyscraper. It looks nothing like it does from the valley floor. It’s daunting, terrifying, awe inspiring, magnificent.
It takes about 3 hours round trip from the base of subdome, up the cables, and back. We had no idea the rock face was so steep, even from pictures. We expected to reach the top of the mountain and hit the cables like no big deal. We arrived to discover that subdome is like climbing a ridiculous incline staircase with no railing. You think you totally can handle it from pictures online, especially as a black diamond skiier who skis off cliffs… pssht, I got this… until you’re there in person, you’re already exhausted from the hike. It exposes your vulnerabilities; it can conquer you if you let it.
It was smoky in the mornings from local wildfires. I noticed it about 23am from the tent, and it would wake me up coughing. I started the hike wearing a mask because my throat was so dry and sore from the smoke. But it was 90 degrees and that was disgusting and sweaty, so I eventually ditched the mask and took my chances with the smoke. It burned off by about 10am and got better the higher we climbed.
Our legs were like jello by the time we hit subdome. My lungs were on fire from asthma exacerbations due to the wildfire smoke and elevation gain (I even lost my voice due to the smoke… it was intense). We brought 8 liters of water between the two of us, and tore through it faster than anticipated in the 90 degree heat. It took us a record breaking (turtle pace) 7hrs to get to the base of subdome. We took breaks, we paced ourselves… maybe too much… I will admit this was mostly my fault because my lungs were failing me. We attempted the entire hike in one day instead of camping at the halfway point, because our tent was on top of our jeep and it wasn’t exactly meant for backpacking. Again, we got this.
If I could do it again, I would never try to attempt this in one day. I would camp at Little Yosemite, relax in the river at the halfway point, and attempt the rock face with fresh legs and lungs the next morning. In retrospect, we could’ve done many things differently, but… I am still so proud of how far we made it. Proud of myself for pushing through despite limitations. Glad we got to see Half Dome with our own eyes from a very different perspective than I ever could’ve imagined. The view was breathtaking.
We told ourselves we would go as far as we could, until we hit a breaking point. I wasn’t sure what that might feel like, but I figured when it happened I/we would know. We made it about 3/4 up subdome and the steepness got the best of us. Fear of heights set in. Realistic evaluations of our jellos legs and dwindling water supply with an 8 mile hike back down set in. Giving up is not always a weakness but a strength in knowing your limits. Not letting your ego take over. The sign at the subdome checkpoint read: “know your limits, make safe decisions”. Always trust your intuitions.
Not today, Half Dome, not today. Maybe not tomorrow either. May you forever tower in all your glory.