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Tour du Mont Blanc: Part Four – Courmayeur to Rifugio Bonatti

Day 6 began with an indulgent breakfast delivered right to our room at 9:30 am—fresh pain au chocolat, croissants, cake slices, biscuits, boiled eggs, a cheese platter, and mini jars of locally produced honey, jam, and chocolate spread . As we enjoyed this feast with apple juice, we gazed out from our balcony at the incredible sunrise over Courmayeur, soaking in the beauty and reflecting on how lucky we were to be here .

Setting off around 11 am, after a wellearned rest day, we made our way through the woods from La Saxe to rejoin the main TMB trail. Along the way, we caught glimpses of the surrounding mountains and spotted wildlife like dark squirrels, little lizards, caterpillars, and butterflies . The morning heat started to rise as we prepared for the steep climb up to Rifugio Bertone. It was exactly as described—challenging but worth every step when the Rifugio finally came into view.

Our arrival left us speechless, the stunning vistas almost too perfect to believe. After soaking in the sights, we refueled—Gemma with a hearty polenta and cheese, and me with a spicy plate of pasta arrabbiata . Energised, we pressed on, but not without pausing at one of the finest viewpoints on the entire TMB route, savoring the moment (and two leftover biscuits from breakfast!).

We took the high route, with its jawdropping scenery, but time quickly slipped away. Realising we wouldn’t have enough time and daylight to complete the whole section, we reviewed the map and decided to descend. Unfortunately, the path soon disappeared, leaving us with two options: retrace our steps or carefully navigate a bushy, pathless section. We chose the latter, though it was slowgoing and tricky at times.

Gemma took a fall but bounced back quickly, and after a long, rugged descent, we arrived at Rifugio Bonatti just in time for the 7 pm dinner. Despite the challenges, it was another unforgettable day in the mountains.

Stay tuned as we continue this incredible adventure, pushing through the ups and downs and taking in every breathtaking view along the way!